I've just come back from the Russian – Norwegian border, 14 kms from Kirkenes in Norway's High North -- driven there by Stein, a very helpful member of the Barents Secretariat. This low-key, quiet border may get busier from April when a new Border Zone will hopefully be created, allowing Russians and Norwegians living with 30 kms of the border visa-free travel – just as all Scandinavians currently enjoy across one another's national borders.
It's quite an advance because on the Russian side (which we didn't reach) there is a barbed wire fence reaching from the Barents Sea to the Gulf of Bothnia on the Finnish Baltic – even though, this border (Russia's oldest) is one of the most peaceful crossing places between east and west. And also one of the slowest – and not just because it's the only border where there's a two hour time difference. Stein tells me that even if you have a multi-journey visa, which allows 90 days in 6 months to be spent in Russia – you still have to "import" your car every time you go through. And you must drive (or cycle) through. No foot traffic is allowed (or makes much sense given its minus 20). The editor of the fabulous Barents Observer www.barentsobserver.com Thomas Nilsen wants his fastest ever processing time of 12 minutes reduced to one minute with biometrics to let him stick a finger into a reader at either side and drive straight through. Will that happen this year? Norway's Foreign Minister Jonas Gahr Store apparently discussed all these plans in Moscow this week with his opposite number. So big change could be just months away – though just for the border dwellers at first.The Barents Spetakel have had some really cheeky artistic pops at the whole absurdity of the border regime. They do get fit classes (border crossing exercises – geddit?) and made a false floodlit border on the frozen lake beside the check point (above) inviting people to cross.
A recent survey found 70% of Russians want to visit Norway – but only 30% would consider working here. I thought that sounded very low, but Norwegians think that's quite high given the cultural chasm that decades of separation have created. Roll on Spring! I have also been massively impressed by the way people aren't daunted by face-freezing temperatures. This woman had put little socks on her dogs feet so he could still enjoy his daily walk– "he's 13 so now he feels the cold," and older women appear to have better mobility in the snow thanks to wooden sledges that act as shopping trolleys/zimmers/ top speed devices for going down slopes. I'm off to try one now.
Comments